The attire of America’s First Ladies at presidential inaugurations not only sets the tone for the incoming administration but also encapsulates the socio-political climate of its time. As Lisa Kathleen Grady, curator at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History, noted, the nation has been fixated on First Lady fashion choices since Martha Washington donned her hand-painted gowns. Each dress isn’t just fabric; it’s a time capsule, stitching together personal style, societal expectations, and the political narrative of its era. Now, with the curtains closed on the 2025 presidential inauguration, let’s revisit some of the most iconic inaugural gowns that have made headlines and history, including the latest from Melania Trump.
Martha Washington wore a salmon pink faille gown, intricately hand-painted with a variety of natural motifs including floral bouquets and 58 different creatures like butterflies, beetles, and bees. The gown exemplified the popular styles of the early 1780s, featuring a repeat pattern between ribbon-trellis designs, each junction accented with a painted green "jewel." This gown showcased the craftsmanship and artistry of 18th-century hand-painted Chinese textiles, notable for their fluid brush strokes and vibrant use of color.
I'm still buzzing about the amazing fashion choices seen at yesterday's inauguration, so here are some first lady fashions in honour of that, all from the @smithsonian. These were worn by Martha Washington, Dolly Madison, Mary Lincoln, and Eleanor Roosevelt pic.twitter.com/vG09kqphZv
— Dr Isabella Rosner (@IsabellaRosner) January 21, 2021
A buff-colored velvet gown with an empire waist, embellished with pearls and lace, and topped off with her signature turban. The first real inaugural ball deserved an outfit with personality, and Dolley delivered. Her gown radiated charm and approachability, laying the groundwork for future First Ladies to own the spotlight at these events.
Mary Todd Lincoln's inaugural gown was a sophisticated white satin dress, beautifully embroidered with vibrant floral designs. This elegant piece was crafted by Elizabeth Keckley, an African American seamstress who was a former enslaved woman. Keckley's talent for design and her significant role in Washington society made this gown a symbol of both fashion and equal rights that transcend color.
Helen Taft's gown for the 1909 inauguration was a masterpiece of delicate white silk chiffon, adorned with metallic floral embroidery and elegantly trimmed with rhinestones and beads. This gown set a presidential precedent when Mrs. Taft became the first First Lady to donate her inaugural gown to the Smithsonian. This act initiated a beloved tradition, enriching the national collection and enabling the public to share in the part of the historical fabric of U.S. presidential inaugurations.
Everyone's talking about Jill Biden's elegant outfit today, so #ootd is Helen Taft's 1909 inauguration gown. It looks more like a Regency-era queen's gown than a first lady's. An interesting choice as that was an association the Washingtons were careful to avoid. #FashionHistory pic.twitter.com/yaNmKmmKgw
— Lauren Deutsch (@LaurenCDeutsch) January 21, 2021
Reflecting the exuberant spirit of the Roaring Twenties, Grace Coolidge's evening dress was a flapper-style, heavily embellished with silver beads. The gown highlighted the fashion trends of the Jazz Age, characterized by its luxurious decorations and the shift towards more liberating styles for women.
Lou Hoover, a Chinese linguist and a geology scholar, chose a modest velvet gown for the Hoover inauguration. Her choice reflected her personal style, which favored simplicity and understated elegance, a stark contrast to the more flamboyant styles of the preceding decade.
For the 1941 inauguration, Eleanor Roosevelt, the longest-running First Lady serving four terms, wore a rose-white satin gown, designed by Sally Milgrim, to convey a sense of subdued elegance during a time of international tension. The gown's simple yet sophisticated design mirrored the First Lady's focus on practicality and her role in American social reforms.
Mamie Eisenhower's inaugural gown was a pink peau de soie fabric, beautifully embroidered with more than 2,000 rhinestones. Designed by Nettie Rosenstein, the gown was emblematic of 1950s glamour and elegance, fitting perfectly with the era's penchant for bright colors and elaborate decorations.
Mary “Mamie” Eisenhower
— FLOTUS Report (@MELANIAJTRUMP) January 18, 2025
At the first inauguration ceremony for her husband, Mamie Eisenhower wore a fur coat with floral corsage.
For the inaugural ball, she wore a pink peau de soie silk dress embroidered with more than 2,000 rhinestones. It was designed by New York–based… pic.twitter.com/7wyvHXTVo9
A sleeveless, off-white silk chiffon gown designed by Ethel Frankau of Bergdorf Goodman, based on Jackie’s own sketches. Jackie didn’t just wear clothes; she curated an image of class. This gown symbolized youthful sophistication and a cultural renaissance, forever linking the Kennedy administration to the aura of Camelot.
Lady Bird Johnson's gown for the 1965 inauguration was made of yellow satin, featuring a sash that added a touch of formality and distinction to the ensemble. The choice of yellow symbolized warmth and continuity, aligning with her focus on beautifying America and her supportive role beside President Johnson.
Claudia “Lady Bird” Johnson
— FLOTUS Report (@MELANIAJTRUMP) January 18, 2025
When her husband was elected in 1965, Lady Bird Johnson wore a red wool dress and matching hat to the inauguration ceremony.
At the gala, she wore a luxuriously yellow silk-satin coat trimmed with chocolaty sable topped a short-sleeve dress that only… pic.twitter.com/H7DHlOvavI
Rosalynn Carter wore a distinctive gold-embroidered sleeveless coat over a gold-trimmed blue chiffon gown for the 1977 inauguration. This elegant ensemble was designed by Mary Matise for Jimmae and previously worn by Mrs. Carter to her husband’s gubernatorial inauguration in 1971. The choice to reuse her gown was both a practical decision and a statement aligning with the Carter family's values of modesty and resourcefulness.
Nancy Reagan's 1981 inaugural gown was a white, one-shouldered sheath gown crafted by James Galanos. Made of lace over silk satin, it featured intricate beading, embodying the First Lady's well-known preference for elegant and glamorous fashion.
7.Nancy Reagan (1981) set the tone for the 1980s with opulence and Hollywood flair. Her James Galanos white beaded gown radiated sophistication, aligning with her larger-than-life public image.
— Katerina Dimitratos (@KDimitratos) January 19, 2025
Look at these outfits.
Nancy Reagan, style icon. pic.twitter.com/7r6CEDZwHS
For the 2009 inauguration, Michelle Obama wore an iconic white, one-shouldered chiffon gown designed by Jason Wu. This elegant dress was embellished with Swarovski crystals, adding a touch of glamour and sparkle to the sophisticated silhouette. Wu, who was relatively unknown at the time, gained significant recognition after this event, as the gown captured the public's imagination with its modern and elegant design.
An off-the-shoulder vanilla silk crepe gown with a thigh-high slit, ruffled trim, and a claret ribbon at the waist, designed by Hervé Pierre. Melania’s gown was the epitome of understated luxury, blending American craftsmanship with European elegance. It subtly reinforced the administration’s focus on strength and precision while leaving no detail to chance.
Jill Biden wore an ivory silk wool cady dress and a double-breasted cashmere coat for the evening events of the 2021 inauguration. Both pieces were designed by Gabriela Hearst and featured embroidery of the federal flowers from every state and territory of the U.S.
First Lady Jill Biden’s inauguration dress and coat ensembles were presented to the Smithsonian today. An ocean blue tweed dress and matching overcoat along with an ivory silk cady dress will be on display for all to see when we reopen tomorrow. pic.twitter.com/M8YIsXEKaj
— National Museum of American History (@amhistorymuseum) January 25, 2023
Melania Trump chose a strapless cream silk crepe gown designed by her trusted collaborator, Hervé Pierre. The gown featured bold black zig-zag bands of silk gazar, adding a modern edge to the timeless silhouette. The gown was accessorized with a 1955-era Harry Winston diamond brooch, repurposed as a choker on a thick black ribbon, infusing old-Hollywood glamour into her modern ensemble. White stiletto pumps completed her look, balancing the monochrome palette and underscoring her meticulous attention to detail.
The choice once again fell to the American designer of French origin, Hervé Pierre, who had already beautifully dressed the First Lady for her first inauguration at the White House in 2017
— Mambo Italiano (@mamboitaliano__) January 21, 2025
With a concept of elegance and wearability that was very similar ✨ pic.twitter.com/gS5nqsAhGb
First Ladies don’t just dress for the occasion—they dress for history. Each inaugural gown tells a story about its wearer, the nation, and the era it represents. From Martha Washington’s hand-painted flowers, symbolizing the simplicity and virtue of a fledgling republic, to Melania Trump’s impeccably tailored gown showcasing American craftsmanship, these dresses remind us that fashion is never just fashion. All eyes are on you FLOTUS.
